Figure of a woman, inscribed, Nobilis Mulier Anglica, in Vestitu Hiemali (An English gentlewoman, in winter clothing)/ W. Hollar fecit, by W Hollar, Theatrum Mulierum,/ sive,/ Varietas etc, 1643. Theatrum Mulierum was a descriptive book of 36 etchings. The prints show different kinds of female fashion throughout Europe. < ...Read more
Figure of a woman, inscribed, Nobilis Mulier Anglica, in Vestitu Hiemali (An English gentlewoman, in winter clothing)/ W. Hollar fecit, by W Hollar, Theatrum Mulierum,/ sive,/ Varietas etc, 1643. Theatrum Mulierum was a descriptive book of 36 etchings. The prints show different kinds of female fashion throughout Europe.
The woman is wearing a dark gown of plain fabric, which is pinned together at the back in order to allow her to walk and/or to reveal her underskirt. Her tight bodice is low-cut; in order to keep her appearance modest she is wearing what seem to be several layers of partlets and kerchiefs. A partlet is a garment often made from linen and adorned with lace, which covered the bust. Over this partlet a kerchief could be worn; a triangular piece of linen/lace that would be folded and pinned down over the shoulders, leaving a point on the back as seen in the print. The woman also has a muff (which could contain several pockets for the keeping of necessities and scent).
The maker of this print is Wenceslaus Hollar (1607 – 1677), a draughtsman and etcher from Prague. Mainly active in Germany, he visited the Netherlands in 1634 and joined the service of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel in 1636. The earl brought the artist to London where he focused mainly on book-illustration and cartography. He joined Lord Henry Howard in his expedition to Tangiers, but afterwards continued his work as an illustrator. He died in London in reduced circumstances.
Other copies of this print are in British Museum Online Catalogue, reference number 1868,0612.260.
Further reading
Colas, R., Bibliographie Générale du Costume et de la Mode. Description des suites, recueils, séries, revues et livres Français et étrangers relatifs au costume civil, militaire et religieux, aux modes, aux coiffures et aux divers accessoires de l’habillement, avec une table méthodique et un index alphabétique, Paris 1933, entry 1465; 1466; 1467.
Reynolds, A., In fine Style. The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion, London 2013.
Ribeiro, A., Fashion and Fiction. Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England, London 2005. < Hide